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Now we must exercise some caution. The blue arrow points to the felt washer that is installed over the bushing. To the left are the three endplate shims that this engine had. 
The next piece on is the ratchet wheel, as the manual calls it. Upper arrow points to it. This has to be installed with the weight opposite from the rod throw, as it is the counterbalance for the crankshaft. Install the tapered roll pin to hold it in place. The roll pin will slide in about half way when installed correctly. If it doesn't you have it backwards. Drive the pin in with a punch, and then open the slot with a chisel from the side of slot. Repeat at least once to insure the pin is secure. The crank should spin freely and have end play. Mine has about .080 or so, and that seems fine to me. 
Piston ready to be installed in cylinder. Notice orientation of piston. Oil inside of cylinder and piston. I dip my pistons in oil when I build engines. Make sure the ring gaps are staggered. Also make sure the ring gaps don't pass over the intake or exhaust ports. 
Piston installed in cylinder. Be careful not to break the rings or rotate the piston. Rotate the crank so the rod throw is towards the cylinder side of the crankcase. Place rod against crank, and gently push cylinder in place while crank rotates towards carb side of crankcase. Install and tighten cylinder bolts. I found this to be easier than the way the manual says to do it. If you used a broken spark plug while painting, remove it. 
Grab a rod bolt, pull on it while rotating crank to this position. Install and tighten nuts and insert cotter pins. Rotate crank several times. You will feel resistance of the piston rings while piston travels up or down. There should be no binding or catching while rotating the crank. If there is take it apart and find out why. 
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