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Engine with cylinder bolted on and ratchet cover in place.
Carburetor installed. Don't forget the lead washers that go on the screws. Buy or make new ones if possible. One of mine leaked after running for a while. 

Do not use silicone on the threads. Silicone will not seal fuel, and that is what is going though the crankcase. 

Hint: I removed the screws and put teflon tape on them after running the engine and having a leak. Don't know if it worked, but now is the time to do it. 

This is an area you will have to decide on. I painted the carburetor. That is the way they came from the factory. I removed the needle valve and brass ring to paint it. 

I also painted the area pointed to by the blue arrow. This needs paint, so do it while it's off the engine. 

The color looks off, but it's just the flash and ambient light combination that lightened it. 

Checking Spark

There are no pictures for this, but I recommend you do it before installing the backing plate assembly.
This will save time and trouble later on. It's not fun to take things apart again because there is no spark.
Insert a clean, dry piece of paper between the points as in the picture below.
Use a 9 volt transistor battery or a six volt lantern battery for this test.
Note: Earlier I recommended using a car battery. Can be done with care, but way too much
power. Use the above, and thanks to Mark for that tip.
Connect a jumper wire from the positive of the battery to the stationary point arm.
Insert the plug wire in the coil, and hold the spark plug end 1/4 inch from the backing plate, while
momentarily touching a jumper lead from the negative side of the battery to
the contact area of the moving point. You should get a spark from the plug wire to the
backing plate, as well as a spark at the jumper wire. I you don't disconnect the condenser, and
 try again. If you get spark you have a bad condenser. If not, you probably have a bad coil.
Hope to have a graphic up on this later, but it's not rocket science.


Backing plate installed. Pretty simple to install. Slide it over the shaft, align the notch shown earlier, and tighten the screw on the back side. 

My points cleaned up good, and I filed them with a point file. Any small file will do, but make sure it is a fine file. The surface of both contacts needs to be flat and pit free when done. 

Be careful with your backing plate. The coil side will hit the floor if dropped, and your coil will crack. Mine did and I did a spark check, and epoxied the crack. Would have preferred an uncracked coil, and I will have to buy one in the future. 


 
The next step is the flywheel. Don't forget the woodruff key. It fits in the slot visible in the picture above. Slide the flywheel on making sure the groove slides over the key. Tighten the nut and insert the cotter pin. 

I don't recommend using the flywheel fins to hold the flywheel for tightening. Use a screwdriver between the hub, and one of the bolts as shown by the blue line. 

This is hard to explain, but I'll try. Tighten nut as tight as you can while holding flywheel by hand until the cotter pin can be inserted in the hole in the crank. Now use the screwdriver to hold the flywheel and tighten the nut one more notch, and insert cotter pin. 

You need to gap the points now. Rotate the flywheel to the position shown to the right. You want the gap to be about .020 when fully open. I just eyeball them, but have a few years experience with points. Use a feeler gage if you have one. If not, a sheet of standard typing paper is about .005, so four would be .020. For the record a dime is about .042, and way too big a gap for coil saturation. Read somewhere to use a dime. Not!!

Hint: Take the plug out for this. The engine is much easier to rotate, and won't fight you. 

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